Yeah the bolts are so incredibly tight they will not budge no matter what I do.i have soaked them in crc,tried freeze release spray and rattled the shit out of them with the snap on cordless impact wrench.
As a last resort I might go buy a 240v impact wrench
Re: turbocab's T2R replica build
Re: Re: turbocab's T2R replica build
A quick update
I had to take the engine down to a mates workshop
We tried a big Truck rattle gun.still wouldn't move them!
We ended up making a steel frame that bolted to the flywheel then bolted that to the floor,then we bought a special socket from snapon that grips rounded out bolts kinda like a female version of an easyout then leaned on them with a 2m long breaker bar extension took a solid 8hrs!
Just got new arp bolts today
I had to take the engine down to a mates workshop
We tried a big Truck rattle gun.still wouldn't move them!
We ended up making a steel frame that bolted to the flywheel then bolted that to the floor,then we bought a special socket from snapon that grips rounded out bolts kinda like a female version of an easyout then leaned on them with a 2m long breaker bar extension took a solid 8hrs!
Just got new arp bolts today
- spike10000
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Re: Re: turbocab's T2R replica build
Matt, is your inbox full? Tried to PM you but the message won't leave my outbox...
Re: Re: turbocab's T2R replica build
Hehe yeah
Cleared some crap and replied
Cleared some crap and replied
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Re: Re: turbocab's T2R replica build
Im guessing the previous owner of that engine used a lot of loctite on the flywheel bolts with an excessive amount of torque, novice Lol.
Re: Re: turbocab's T2R replica build
Yeah they were like glued in with locktite and probably done up with a truck rattle gun.when they finally broke free they went off with a bang like they were snapping.
yeah I have found a few things that make you wonder if the guy that did them was a certified window licker.
Stripped out sump plug thread,sensors with the wires nearly completely yanked out,multiple cross threaded bolts in the turbo,twist and tape wiring in amongst main engine looms.
Funny thing is in his old civic build thread he claimed to be "building a turbo d series with reliability in mind as a daily driver"
yeah I have found a few things that make you wonder if the guy that did them was a certified window licker.
Stripped out sump plug thread,sensors with the wires nearly completely yanked out,multiple cross threaded bolts in the turbo,twist and tape wiring in amongst main engine looms.
Funny thing is in his old civic build thread he claimed to be "building a turbo d series with reliability in mind as a daily driver"
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Re: Re: turbocab's T2R replica build
Haha yeah that sounds like most peoples aim to have a reliable daily driver that has a massive amount of power that doesn't chew through the fuel, sounds like hes a real D.I.Y.er haha. I class myself as a do it yourself type so i cant be to judgemental towards other peoples workmanship, i just bought a tig welder to add to the D.Y.I. lifestyle as its going to be needed for when i commit to the B18c conversion, engines been sitting in the shed for a few weeks now just waiting haha.
Re: Re: turbocab's T2R replica build
I'm all for diy don't get me wrong.everything on my car aside from painting was done by me.
There is no excuse for cross threading bolts tho.
There is no excuse for cross threading bolts tho.
Re: turbocab's T2R replica build
Hey Turbocab, Been looking at pics of the old widebody kit again, How do your doors open? The door panel flares out & matches up with the front Quarter...does the finned part on the door fit underneath the flare on the front quarter when you open the door or something?
Re: Re: turbocab's T2R replica build
Had to go out and look at it,it's been under a car cover for soo long.
Basically as you said above.on the door where there are the 3 gills as I call them,above that it tucks back in again so the door can fit under and inside the guard to open.
Doors can't open unless wheels are straight ahead end of door hits tyre
Basically as you said above.on the door where there are the 3 gills as I call them,above that it tucks back in again so the door can fit under and inside the guard to open.
Doors can't open unless wheels are straight ahead end of door hits tyre
Re: turbocab's T2R replica build
Thanks for doing that. Starring at pics I figured that must be how it works, either that or you Dukes of Hazzard it into the car :p
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