CityTurbo.com

Sorry PGNUTA didnt mean to sound quite like that im sure that you know how to check for error codes  :P it might be helpful to newbies tho so ill leave it there...

Check the computer under the drivers seat for error codes, they are red LEDs add up the numbers below them if there are any then post em here, what you describe happened to Colzas city engine when I tried to connect a home-made FCD to it and stuffed up the MAP sensor readings, once the ECU realises ...

Look where the sun don't shine you dog fondle-er  ;)

You can install it by finding MAP sensor B (cant remember what colour that plug is someone might be able to help there) using a multimeter with the car turned to on take readings between each of the three wires and ground. One will have about 0 volts, one will read 5 volts exactly and one will read ...

whats your location dude?

Why do you need all that crap Tony? The fuel tank is fair enough that saves fabricating a return line, fuel lines, radiator and fuel pump is the same but why do you need to change the heater box and dash? If you want to use the city instruments it would prolly be wise but if you use aftermarket boos...

Cheers charles that explains it nicely Can you still get those ARP head stud kits from you at Racecraft? If not where can we source them from pref in NZ?

There is a number of differences between a turbo city and a non turbo, injection, bonnet hump and assorted other bollucks. It would be easier for you to buy a Honda City Turbo 1 they look almost exactly like a non turbo city except they have a bonnet hump and sometimes "Turbo" decals these...

Yeah I think they can do manifold gaskets aswell. Why are copper gaskets so popular in performance circles? Do you need and iron block to clamp them down hard enough?

I just found somewhere here in NZ that can make an annealed copper head gasket for a city for like $90 ;D Im not complaining with those prices. They can also make solid steel ones. If anyones intrested I can probably get some more details, just thought someone might be keen......

Yeah 2in is a bit small for a turbo car if you want to go maximum power. Generally a good exhaust for a city turb in my opinon would consist of a custom 2.5 inch from the turbo back with mandrel bends on all the big bends and just press bent for the little ones with a single straight through muff at...

Ahhhh they are threaded sorry i was confused i thought they were the whole heat up the block and chuck in the tight fitting stud and let the block shrink around it deal, if they are threaded then that does sound very simple, thanks for the help charles and qiklude

Hacksaws and angle grinders, they are the only way to remove anything ;D, BTW how do you get studs out?

The comp of the 1800 EK is 8.8:1 I tihnk a very good comp ratio for big turbo power methinks. I just had a go at chucking on the city manifolds onto the EL head this morning, the two outermost studs are to far inwards by about 15mm each so they will have to be removed/hacksawed and new ones threaded...

Im pretty sure that due to the laws of physics the only way you can change the actual physical length of a pistons stroke is to change the throw of the crankshaft. The changing of the location of the pin just change the geometry or the assembly i thought and made it freer to rev something about the ...