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Nice. I am tending towards a ZC swap now, but i flit like a butterfly ::) shall have to see how it all works out...

Pete,

Are you by any chance reusing your old head studs? If you dont have a set of ARPs in there then it will keep blowing. They spiral shank honda bolts are basically a single use job and they get all stretchy on you.

I have used non turbo HG on the turbo motors, at 26psi they seem to work OK until you throw in nitrous and cut the fuel by accident.

The ol' method of no-fuel + heaps of NOS for some nice lean power gains aye? Sounds like it might get a wee bit on the hot side That the one where you had the forgies in it and they were fine but the block was ventilated?

I guess I better keep an eye on things then.  :-/
Just re-using the std setup which is 3 studs and all the rest are bolts. Does re-torquing help?

Have another issue I would love some help on.
Whenever the car is left for a about 3 - 5 mins after it's up to temp, it won't start for a while. The fuel pump isn't getting any power at all. Is there a temp sensor that could screwing things up? After leaving it a few more minutes and many more tries, you can hear the pump come on with the ignition switch, then it will run. Damn embarassing when stopping for gas etc!  :-[
Pete

what dictates wether your pump comes on other than the ignition switch?... a whole lot of people are/have experienced this and no one seems to have come up with a conclusive answer.. pete have you checked all your grounds to the head  etc since you put your head back on.. did it do it before, cam should be able to sort it in a jiffy... being part autosparky and stuff or is he being his normal elusive self

Dude,
How's stuff there? Pump has done this for ages now. I'm sure it's not electrical as it starts up first time everytime when the motor is cold. Will always spring into life again after it's indiscretions, but is just a pain to wait 'til it does!  >:(
I just flick the ignition on and off untill I hear the fuel pump, then the engine will start. Will see if Cam has any ideas, but yeah, he's hard to track down and seldom arrives when he says he will!  :-/
Pete

It sounds like your main relay thats playing up. Mine was doing this to me ages ago and it just turned out to be a dry joint, soldered it back up and its been fine ever since.

Here's the link for the article in the infobase: http://www.cityturbo.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=FAQ;action=display;num=1076540762

I agree with Si on that one, mine was the same, re-soldered the main relay and hasn't happened since.

[quote author=Turbo3 link=board=GEN;num=1113865636;start=15#20 date=05/13/05 at 06:44:22] he's hard to track down and seldom arrives when he says he will!  :-/
Pete [/quote]

yeh.. he's a bugger like that... to me it also sounds like a dry solder join... they always play up when hot..

Pete,

Definately main relay as the guys have noted above. The usual time it happens-get to a petrol station fill up and try to restart the car-nothing, nudda, zilch, zip.

A quick couple of bangs under the dash will usually get it working again but the best option is to resolder as above. This is a curse of all honda models.

Hi Turbo 3,

Back to the headgasket problem.  One old trick that is still worth while, paint the head and block surfaces, and both sides of the head gasket with a paint like Silvafrost.  It contains fine aluminium particals and gives an additional fitting surface.  The paint must be properly dry before reassembly.

Thin coats only though.  Make sure that the paint does contain aluminium too.  There's a couple of paints that don't.

This method can, and does, work with diesels, so it should be okay with the turbo at full boost.  Providing that both head and block surfaces are within tolerances and you torque all bolts to correct tension, in the correct order.

good luck,
Campbell