Re: turbocab's T2R replica build
i got bored with fixing the rust so i drilled all the holes in the front guards and bumpers and fitted them,this helped with inspiration so after that i decided to cut out and patch some rust spots that i had treated and was planning to leave hidden behind the rear bar,glad i did because most of them were bigger and worse than i expected.
ive also been on the hunt for wheels for the last month and ime really getting sick of the constant dissapointment and lack of interest from wheel and tyre retailers,but ive got a few promising leads to follow up so fingers crossed.
matt
ive also been on the hunt for wheels for the last month and ime really getting sick of the constant dissapointment and lack of interest from wheel and tyre retailers,but ive got a few promising leads to follow up so fingers crossed.
matt
- James
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Hey man, I have some thoughts on your wheels.
Rather than go for 50mm spacers, which are quite gross, and you wont get much dish. I would suggest you go for either completely modifying your hubs to be 4x114.3 stud pattern, so you can use RWD offset wheels. Or getting some stud pattern adaptors that are as thin as possible. That was you can get some 0 ET ae86 wheels or something and have some mega dish.
Another option you should consider is rota wheels. They make pretty good copies of many old school mag styles, and also the work equip's and things. They are significantly cheaper, like <$1000 for a set of 15x7"s and still pretty light. You should be careful in your choice of tyre width. With street suspension anything bigger than 195ish is over-tyring for cornering, youll just never generate enough force and slip to get anything bigger warm. However from a straight line perspective you will want possibly something a little bigger, but I personally wouldn't go past a 205 width.
For an ideal low profile setup I would go for 195/45r15 stretched onto a 15x6.5" wheel on the front, in a good semi-slick tyre, with 185/50 on the rear on a 5.5" or 6" wheel. If thats a little bit tail happy (shouldn't be set up properly) then you could go up to a 195/45 on the rear too.
Rather than go for 50mm spacers, which are quite gross, and you wont get much dish. I would suggest you go for either completely modifying your hubs to be 4x114.3 stud pattern, so you can use RWD offset wheels. Or getting some stud pattern adaptors that are as thin as possible. That was you can get some 0 ET ae86 wheels or something and have some mega dish.
Another option you should consider is rota wheels. They make pretty good copies of many old school mag styles, and also the work equip's and things. They are significantly cheaper, like <$1000 for a set of 15x7"s and still pretty light. You should be careful in your choice of tyre width. With street suspension anything bigger than 195ish is over-tyring for cornering, youll just never generate enough force and slip to get anything bigger warm. However from a straight line perspective you will want possibly something a little bigger, but I personally wouldn't go past a 205 width.
For an ideal low profile setup I would go for 195/45r15 stretched onto a 15x6.5" wheel on the front, in a good semi-slick tyre, with 185/50 on the rear on a 5.5" or 6" wheel. If thats a little bit tail happy (shouldn't be set up properly) then you could go up to a 195/45 on the rear too.
thanks for your thaughts bigelboe ile check out rota wheels.
ive found a guy in sydney who has 2 sets left in stock of 215 45 r15 toyo proxis toyo have discontinued to make these.
basically the only tyres available for 15 in rims are 50 series and bigger
ive also been talking with a mate who has a mate that owns a performance workshop here in sydney that has quoted me $1600 for a full set of adjustable coilovers so they are in the pipeline too.
i can get 4x100 to 4x114.5 converters in 25mm but ide rather just get rims in the right offset.
matt
ive found a guy in sydney who has 2 sets left in stock of 215 45 r15 toyo proxis toyo have discontinued to make these.
basically the only tyres available for 15 in rims are 50 series and bigger
ive also been talking with a mate who has a mate that owns a performance workshop here in sydney that has quoted me $1600 for a full set of adjustable coilovers so they are in the pipeline too.
i can get 4x100 to 4x114.5 converters in 25mm but ide rather just get rims in the right offset.
matt
- James
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I think your only likely to find affordable rims in the correct offset for 114. Rota only do their really low offset ones in 114, purely because essenially no RWD cars run 4x100 and no fwd cars want that offset.
A 215 is a big tyre for a city, even on modded b18c hondas they dont often go past a 205/50. I still recon a 195/50 is a nice sidewall and with a good brand gets plenty of grip. Then chuck some 215 or 225/40 hoosiers on for the drag strip :p
A 215 is a big tyre for a city, even on modded b18c hondas they dont often go past a 205/50. I still recon a 195/50 is a nice sidewall and with a good brand gets plenty of grip. Then chuck some 215 or 225/40 hoosiers on for the drag strip :p
yeah fair enough with your expert advise i wont go wider than a 205.
but the problem is the 5o series tires have a od that is too big and will end up hitting the front bar,so i was thinking of cutting back that edge of the front bar by about 20 to 25mm to allow turning
what i also want to do is sit about 200kg(or whatever the engine weighs) in the front of the car so i can get a true indication of exactly how mutch clearence ile have with the springs at their normal height.
on another note my mate bought round a 17 in wheel with a 35 series 205 on it and it fits comfortably and even has a smaller od than a 15 with a 50 series tyre so i could go some 17 on it but that kinda blows the whole oldschool look ime going for.
so with a set of 25mm spacers that change my stud pattern to 4x114.5 i need to work out how mutch offset the wheels will need to be to come close to where -13s would sit,how would i go about that?
matt
but the problem is the 5o series tires have a od that is too big and will end up hitting the front bar,so i was thinking of cutting back that edge of the front bar by about 20 to 25mm to allow turning
what i also want to do is sit about 200kg(or whatever the engine weighs) in the front of the car so i can get a true indication of exactly how mutch clearence ile have with the springs at their normal height.
on another note my mate bought round a 17 in wheel with a 35 series 205 on it and it fits comfortably and even has a smaller od than a 15 with a 50 series tyre so i could go some 17 on it but that kinda blows the whole oldschool look ime going for.
so with a set of 25mm spacers that change my stud pattern to 4x114.5 i need to work out how mutch offset the wheels will need to be to come close to where -13s would sit,how would i go about that?
matt
- James
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I would chuck a mag on the car, of a known offset and width. Then measure how far furthur out you want the tyre in the guard, and use that to work out how much more offset you need. Take a spring off the strut and just set teh height with a jack so you can see what the clearence looks like. You could probably bogan something up with some bits of pipe and long bolts to hold the tyre where you want it, then move it trhough its motion by hand to see if it clears everything. If that doesn't make any sense let me know and Ill draw some pics
- rustyhornet
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Looking good mate!
G'day Matty... Long time no speak!
Your progress is very encouraging indeed
Dam this Adelaide cold winter spell! Can't seem to get motivated
Keep up the good work, & I'm sure you will get close to making your target date... Please Just don't make the mistake of rushing to finish & spoil the end result.
Your progress is very encouraging indeed
Dam this Adelaide cold winter spell! Can't seem to get motivated
Keep up the good work, & I'm sure you will get close to making your target date... Please Just don't make the mistake of rushing to finish & spoil the end result.
yeah its been a while hey.
thanks for the encouragement.. i need it!
progress report
ime just about to transfer the funds for my wheels so they should be here in just over a month i hope.
no silly spacers,ime gettin a set of 15x7 -13 offset gold work 03s.
i want to get wheels and tires on the car before i paint it incase i need to modify the front bar to allow the front wheels to turn (ime going to be cutting it very fine as it is like 15mm either side)but i dont yet know where they will sit with the suspension fully loaded.
ive also had trouble with where the back of the door and rear quarter pannel meet so i filled the inside of each fiberglass pannel with polyester resin and micro beads so once they are on i can grind them back to maintain the gap and allow the door to close without rubbing.
next job that i will tackle soon is the right hand side door rust in preperation for the rhs trial fit and sticking on of door and rear quarter pannel then i can start hosing on the body filler and fix the remaining surface rust in the little sillip thingys above the doors.
A QUESTION?
has anyone removed the rear hatch glass and asociated seal? if so can it be done without damaging the seal? or does anyone know where i could get another seal from?
REASON! there is a small patch of rust bubling up from below the seal at the bottom and ide say theres more ready to start coming up.
matt
thanks for the encouragement.. i need it!
progress report
ime just about to transfer the funds for my wheels so they should be here in just over a month i hope.
no silly spacers,ime gettin a set of 15x7 -13 offset gold work 03s.
i want to get wheels and tires on the car before i paint it incase i need to modify the front bar to allow the front wheels to turn (ime going to be cutting it very fine as it is like 15mm either side)but i dont yet know where they will sit with the suspension fully loaded.
ive also had trouble with where the back of the door and rear quarter pannel meet so i filled the inside of each fiberglass pannel with polyester resin and micro beads so once they are on i can grind them back to maintain the gap and allow the door to close without rubbing.
next job that i will tackle soon is the right hand side door rust in preperation for the rhs trial fit and sticking on of door and rear quarter pannel then i can start hosing on the body filler and fix the remaining surface rust in the little sillip thingys above the doors.
A QUESTION?
has anyone removed the rear hatch glass and asociated seal? if so can it be done without damaging the seal? or does anyone know where i could get another seal from?
REASON! there is a small patch of rust bubling up from below the seal at the bottom and ide say theres more ready to start coming up.
matt
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