Re: turbocab's T2R replica build

Post whatever you like in here but try to keep it Honda City related!
User avatar
James
Moderator / Donating Member
Posts: 3092
Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2003 1:59 pm
Location: Putaruru
Contact:

Postby James » Sun Oct 26, 2008 12:59 pm

Looking good man, im fairly sure you get most of the strength of the stich welding without having to fully weld, just short little welds like I've done do the trick. Apparently one tack has around 500kg tensile strength.

turbocab
Donating Member
Posts: 1536
Joined: Wed Sep 01, 2004 12:23 pm
Location: Central coast nsw

Postby turbocab » Sun Oct 26, 2008 7:40 pm

yeah i know its overkill but i just like the look of it compared to the tacks,although those welds pictured look like crap because whatever the adhesive between the panels is burns and messes up the welds.
went nuts on the lhs suspension supports today and uncovered a whole heap more rust that ive now cut out :roll:
also some of the rust that ive already sandblasted and treated with rust kill crap is starting to bubble again below the primer :x so ime going to look into that por15 stuff its ment to be the ducks nuts.

User avatar
James
Moderator / Donating Member
Posts: 3092
Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2003 1:59 pm
Location: Putaruru
Contact:

Postby James » Sun Oct 26, 2008 10:26 pm

turbocab wrote:yeah i know its overkill but i just like the look of it compared to the tacks,although those welds pictured look like crap because whatever the adhesive between the panels is burns and messes up the welds.


Tell me about it, its such a pain. Are you using seam sealer back over the seams?

turbocab wrote:went nuts on the lhs suspension supports today and uncovered a whole heap more rust that ive now cut out :roll:
also some of the rust that ive already sandblasted and treated with rust kill crap is starting to bubble again below the primer :x so ime going to look into that por15 stuff its ment to be the ducks nuts.


After pulling off all the paint that I put on 2 years ago, and seeing some of those tiny little stains that look like nothing bubble after being rust killed, the only thing I'm trusting now is complete removal. :x My method is grinding every stain I can see off the metal (seem to have to be ground, wire wheel and sanding discs don't really do it) leave it bare for a week or so, and all the stainy spots you missed will have rusted up again so you can see them, go back and hit them with the grinder. Once the metal is really clean and rust free I can leave it sitting in the garage for 6 months (so far) and it doesn't get a sign of rust. Im trying to build my car with the intention of this paint job lasting 10years+ so while POR15 might be great, its not ever going to be as good as making sure there is no rust at all 8)

User avatar
3GCVC
Forum Addict
Posts: 391
Joined: Sun May 27, 2007 5:17 pm
Contact:

Postby 3GCVC » Mon Oct 27, 2008 5:36 pm

POR15 is definately the shit to use,

it is made to be applied over rust and last 10 years but i always sandblast the steel clean and then put it on it and put my primer overtop.

User avatar
ProT
Donating Member
Posts: 203
Joined: Mon Mar 29, 2004 7:40 pm
Location: Sydney

Postby ProT » Mon Oct 27, 2008 5:43 pm

I've got some RustBullet to try in the engine bay, firewall & floor etc. on my car.

see rustbullet.com.au & rustbullet.com

Not so many steps in preparation as the Por15. (I'm lazy)

Guess I'll see in a year or two if it is as good as they claim.

turbocab
Donating Member
Posts: 1536
Joined: Wed Sep 01, 2004 12:23 pm
Location: Central coast nsw

Postby turbocab » Mon Oct 27, 2008 8:48 pm

already bought the por15 today now the fun bit...sandblasting the entire front of the car all over again :roll:

turbocab
Donating Member
Posts: 1536
Joined: Wed Sep 01, 2004 12:23 pm
Location: Central coast nsw

Postby turbocab » Thu Oct 30, 2008 3:50 pm

just found out i wont be getting my wheels until december not happy :evil:

User avatar
James
Moderator / Donating Member
Posts: 3092
Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2003 1:59 pm
Location: Putaruru
Contact:

Postby James » Thu Oct 30, 2008 4:16 pm

Gutted :(

User avatar
ProT
Donating Member
Posts: 203
Joined: Mon Mar 29, 2004 7:40 pm
Location: Sydney

Postby ProT » Thu Oct 30, 2008 5:26 pm

Why the delay, Customs or shipping?

turbocab
Donating Member
Posts: 1536
Joined: Wed Sep 01, 2004 12:23 pm
Location: Central coast nsw

Postby turbocab » Thu Oct 30, 2008 9:08 pm

shipping
basically the story is that because of this market crash bullshit they sent them via sea instead of air.
now the way i look at it they are making a significant saving by sending them on a ship but do you think ile ever see any of my hard dollars back?
i think not.
they should have been here two months ago and now i have to wait another month.
not f#$king impressed at all!
ime also kinda pissed that no one asked me if i would be willing to pay a little more to have them air mailed to me wich i would have done.
matt :evil:

User avatar
3GCVC
Forum Addict
Posts: 391
Joined: Sun May 27, 2007 5:17 pm
Contact:

Postby 3GCVC » Fri Oct 31, 2008 6:53 pm

sea shipping takes about a month to month and a half i have had quite a few things shipped over sea, air is far too steep.

im assuming it is japan they are comin from.

turbocab
Donating Member
Posts: 1536
Joined: Wed Sep 01, 2004 12:23 pm
Location: Central coast nsw

Postby turbocab » Sun Nov 02, 2008 8:10 pm

spent all day sat and most of today with the grinder and wirebrush wheel and ime about 90% where i want to be everything else is going to have to come off with the sandblaster that i bought today,but ive found that my pussy little compressor dosent have the guts to power it for any longer than a ten second burst so ile have to borrow the big compressor off my boss later in the week and blast away all the hard to reach bits.
section of rusty steel removed
Image
bare metal lhs wheel arch
Image
right hand side
Image
the new sand blaster
Image
view or engine bay
Image

User avatar
3GCVC
Forum Addict
Posts: 391
Joined: Sun May 27, 2007 5:17 pm
Contact:

Postby 3GCVC » Sun Nov 02, 2008 11:06 pm

WOW you and bigelboe are going nuts with the bare metal stuff,

Not really supposed to leave it bare for long at all even the moisture in the air makes it rust, which is why i like to work on one smaller bit at a time then prime it, just make sure you use etch primer on bare steel.

progressing real well i bet that is gonna be stiff when its done, even double spot welding around the doors and windows makes a pretty big difference.

turbocab
Donating Member
Posts: 1536
Joined: Wed Sep 01, 2004 12:23 pm
Location: Central coast nsw

Postby turbocab » Mon Nov 03, 2008 5:57 am

3GCVC wrote:WOW you and bigelboe are going nuts with the bare metal stuff,
Not really supposed to leave it bare for long at all even the moisture in the air makes it rust, which is why i like to work on one smaller bit at a time then prime it, just make sure you use etch primer on bare steel.
progressing real well i bet that is gonna be stiff when its done, even double spot welding around the doors and windows makes a pretty big difference.

well i did it half arsed the first time and the rust was back in two months,so no more mr nice guy.the por 15 is made to go on straight over the bare metal and any rust.ime going to give it all a sand blast to take away any surface rust the night before painting
well the windows and doors are done ime going to do the windscreen after ime done with the front end.
matt

User avatar
James
Moderator / Donating Member
Posts: 3092
Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2003 1:59 pm
Location: Putaruru
Contact:

Postby James » Mon Nov 03, 2008 8:26 am

Looking good man, no mucking around! Took me about half of yesterday to strip the shit out of one wheel arch, my car was aftermarket coated with rust proofing stuff that is really thick and waxy, has meant I have practically no surface rust, but it takes aaaageess to get off.

Alex, I was intending to etch prime mine but after talking with Pete who is painting my car, he recons that Durapox is sweet straight on bare metal (Thats what he's done his Mini in). I did a bit of an experiment with it last week, painted some on bare metal and some on bare metal treated with PPG 'Deoxidine' which is Phosphoric Acid (rust killer) and some other crap. Let it cure for a couple of days then tried to wire brush it off, and damn, that shit was stuck on good. Far better than the factory etch primer.

My plan is to get all the paint and surface rust off the bare chassis this week, then give it a sand to get it all clean and primer the whole deal. With all the removable panels off there isnt actually much area to do :P

I hadn't really planned on welding around the door frames and stuff but If you recon its worth it then I will, can never have a too stiff chassis, it always just makes it nicer to drive. Notice it hugely driving my Fiancee's new EK Civic, feels very rigid when it goes over bumps and stuff.


Return to “General”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests