Re: turbocab's T2R replica build

Post whatever you like in here but try to keep it Honda City related!
turbocab
Donating Member
Posts: 1536
Joined: Wed Sep 01, 2004 12:23 pm
Location: Central coast nsw

Postby turbocab » Sun Feb 15, 2009 7:07 pm

alright ile try ditching the lower control arm and fitting my spare.
by looking at it i believe that it will be very hard and highly inaccurate to measure from the center of the rear wheel to the center of the front wheel
what i was thinking is taking a measurement from under the car like the distance between the front and rear lower control arm mounts,i would assume they should be exactly the same if the car was straight and slightly off if not.
if all else fails ile give the crude home stretching a go,i can get my grubby little hands on a chain block pretty easy and i think i know a spot at a local park where there is two fing big telegraph poles about 4m apart.
matt

madmini
Donating Member
Posts: 156
Joined: Sat Jun 24, 2006 1:20 pm
Location: wellington,new zealand

Postby madmini » Sun Feb 15, 2009 7:29 pm

yeah the crude trick works and yes us panelshops do it when rig is in use with other cars ect,center to center would be a good base point,we do it all the time and normaly 1-2mm out when they go for wheel alignment but if you want to work under the car mesure from something in the rear say a hole in the rails but must be in the same place as the other side,you could go from the back edge of the sill and up to the mount of the arm if theres nothing else to go off,the one we have at work works by laser light and we hang the tags off the rails and is dead accurate.

turbocab
Donating Member
Posts: 1536
Joined: Wed Sep 01, 2004 12:23 pm
Location: Central coast nsw

Postby turbocab » Sun Feb 15, 2009 7:49 pm

the more i think about it the more i am considering having it professionally straightened.
ile call around and see if anyone i know has access to a straightening rig.
ile get my mate round tomorrow and take a few measurements and try replacing that control arm,could it maybe be a bit of damage to the sway bar too?
if its only going to cost me a few hundred if i cant call in a favor from someone ide rather know that it is perfect to some flashy laser guided computer controlled thingamabob.
matt

madmini
Donating Member
Posts: 156
Joined: Sat Jun 24, 2006 1:20 pm
Location: wellington,new zealand

Postby madmini » Sun Feb 15, 2009 8:24 pm

yeah id recomend it,affter all look at all the work you've done so far would be that one thing that anoys you if you didnt get it fixed kinda thing,replace the arm,cant rember if they have a tie rod arm as well? if your not shure replace it too and go from there,if i was doing it at work would proberly take anywhere between 1-3 hrs of labour max so have a chat to your panelshop,mabey a cashy/or shout them some beers for friday should do the trick :)

cheers pete.

User avatar
James
Moderator / Donating Member
Posts: 3092
Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2003 1:59 pm
Location: Putaruru
Contact:

Postby James » Mon Feb 16, 2009 8:42 am

The city manual has a whole bunch of chassis measurements that are ment to be used for checking straightness.

turbocab
Donating Member
Posts: 1536
Joined: Wed Sep 01, 2004 12:23 pm
Location: Central coast nsw

Postby turbocab » Mon Feb 16, 2009 9:20 pm

replaced the control arm tonight, no change. :(

User avatar
James
Moderator / Donating Member
Posts: 3092
Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2003 1:59 pm
Location: Putaruru
Contact:

Postby James » Tue Feb 17, 2009 7:25 am

Also for the rear. NA cities had 10 or 20mm less rear track so if you use complete rear suspension bar shock and spring from an NA one you might get 5-10mm more clearence at the back. They will have a different shock angle to take into account the shorter control arms.

turbocab
Donating Member
Posts: 1536
Joined: Wed Sep 01, 2004 12:23 pm
Location: Central coast nsw

Postby turbocab » Wed Feb 18, 2009 8:04 pm

still haven't had a chance to measure the chassis up(everyone is busy when i need help)
but today got out the trusty jigsaw and cut the bumper back by 25mm ime happy with the new curve of the wheel arch,it clears nicely on the drivers side but the passenger is still going to just touch so before i glass back the little return lip ile wait to see the outcome of the chassis tweaking and go from there.
hey bigelboe if i do change to a prot rear suspension setup is that going to cause any problems with the setup you are building of which i plan to purchase one of the first sets :wink:
matt

User avatar
James
Moderator / Donating Member
Posts: 3092
Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2003 1:59 pm
Location: Putaruru
Contact:

Postby James » Wed Feb 18, 2009 8:32 pm

Nope :D

turbocab
Donating Member
Posts: 1536
Joined: Wed Sep 01, 2004 12:23 pm
Location: Central coast nsw

Postby turbocab » Wed Feb 18, 2009 8:50 pm

cool 8) ile start looking for a set.
what do i need to swap
control arms
shocks
springs
swaybar?

User avatar
James
Moderator / Donating Member
Posts: 3092
Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2003 1:59 pm
Location: Putaruru
Contact:

Postby James » Thu Feb 19, 2009 4:07 pm

Probably just control arms and the knuckle/hub assembly. Shocks and swaybar should be fine with T2 stuff.

turbocab
Donating Member
Posts: 1536
Joined: Wed Sep 01, 2004 12:23 pm
Location: Central coast nsw

Postby turbocab » Thu Feb 19, 2009 7:02 pm

i measured the car up today and as far as i can tell the passenger side is 5 to 7mm further back than the drivers side.
i also tried swapping over the sway bar assembly with my spare but it didnt effect it at all,
i have a mate who is quite good friends with a guy that owns a panel shop who has a rack thingy and may want a small wall built in his office i see a trade about to happen.
are the pro t rear brakes different?or can i just use my t2 ones on the pro t knuckles?
matt

User avatar
rustyhornet
Forum Regular
Posts: 94
Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 8:30 pm
Location: Adelaide, South Australia

Postby rustyhornet » Mon Feb 23, 2009 10:41 am

G'day mate!
Long time between drinks :P

PROGRESS IS LOOKING VERY 'SEXY TIME!'

As for the rear brakes you've asked about...
The Pro T rear stub axle/knuckles can be used with the stock T2 Drum brakes, so yes!
Just undo the four bolts on the backing plate, & the big nut with split pin which holds all the bearings captive.

I've done this conversion on my T2 because it allows me to run wider rims with dish, still under the guards... The off set is about -10mm, meaning the wheel track on the rear is 20mm narrower :roll:

Just don't forget to also change the rear lower control arms, as the Pro T items are shorter (otherwise you will has some major camber issues).

Turbocab, do you or any one else know if the Pro T FRONT stub axle/knuckles can be used with the T2 vented disc's & calipers... or better yet any other bigger brake combo?

I'm thinking the factory caliper mount will fowl because it's designed for the thinner solid disc set-up...
Have had time to measure up yet, so far I'm away the drive shafts have also be swapped as the lengths will differ :arrow:

I thought you would be struggling to fill the wide body kit guards... Or did you order the wrong offset wheels after all this waiting :oops:

Sorry man, bigger is not always better... & the thought of you cutting up that front bar brings a tear to my eye :cry:

User avatar
rustyhornet
Forum Regular
Posts: 94
Joined: Fri Jul 15, 2005 8:30 pm
Location: Adelaide, South Australia

Postby rustyhornet » Mon Feb 23, 2009 11:09 am

Hey Turbocab,
After reading trough this massive post some more, a question comes to mind.

How did you support the car/chassis when you did the rust removal in the front end/windscreen area?
I ask because for past experience of repairing such large structural areas on a car...
If left unbraced this could have helped cause your dilemma now, given the car could sag under the weight, & twist/distort from the heat caused when welding :shock:

turbocab
Donating Member
Posts: 1536
Joined: Wed Sep 01, 2004 12:23 pm
Location: Central coast nsw

Postby turbocab » Mon Feb 23, 2009 8:30 pm

the main rebuilt welded patches were done in stages to reduce warping of the steel but i am pretty sure the distortion is a combination of me f#@king with the lhs lower control arm support and running up the back of some fat mole in a rav 4 that stopped at a green light lol
looks like my mate is hooking up a bit of a check on a chassis rack and a pull in exchange for some minor carpentry work in the guys workshop.win win.
you wont know the difference after i fix the bumper unless its side to side with your one
and i think the wheels will be fine with some nice hard suspension mods.i dont care if i went too overboard with the offset they are pure sex!
and besides an 80s race car (replica) shouldnt be too low any way.
matt


Return to “General”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot] and 42 guests