Dxs's 'getting his t2 on the road' log

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Dxs
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Postby Dxs » Wed Jan 21, 2009 7:11 pm

manifolds are on..


brackets?

basically, dump pipe is disconnected but sitting there.. turbo oil lines off, stuff like dizzy and CAS? removed, a few plugs disconnected, still do to fuel lines though.

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James
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Postby James » Wed Jan 21, 2009 9:42 pm

There is a bracket bolting the exhaust manifold to the block.

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Postby QikLude » Thu Jan 22, 2009 8:49 am

Hi Dxs

Have a look in here
http://cityturbo.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=693&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=permaseal

It list the seal kits i used in motor rebuild, there was a stardard ER honda rebuild set and then another kit for the ER5 which had the extra bits for the intake manifold etc etc specific to the injected model.

Might be of use to you.

Cheers

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James
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Postby James » Thu Jan 22, 2009 9:11 am

http://cityturbo.com/forums/viewtopic.p ... 23&start=0

Some details.

Image

Head sets on the right, conversion sets on the left.

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Dxs
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Postby Dxs » Thu Jan 22, 2009 10:17 am

the seal kits are fairly confusing to me.

so the NA city 'conversion kit' which is like the block seals.. is the same as the turbo?


just the head has different gaskets for manifolds etc?


so say a turbo VRS kit and a NA conversion/block kit.. is all i would need and would do the job fine?




or are full turbo kits available?

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James
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Postby James » Thu Jan 22, 2009 10:56 am

Yeah conversion set is block gaskets and is universal. Head set (VRS??) is turbo specific. Im fairly sure they are only available seperately. People have managed to get them in Aus but they are usually far more expensive than from over here, even tho they are made in aus.

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Dxs
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Postby Dxs » Thu Jan 22, 2009 12:43 pm

i have a mate who said he can get me the vrs for around 120

finally got the head off today as well. here are some pics:

to a noob like me it doesnt look too bad. I am a little concerned at the bores though.. and if they look glazed?

Image
Image
Image
Image



i guess now my task is to work out how to remove the block and the manifolds.. get parts and try to organise some kind of shaving to be done.

Any opinions/suggestions?

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Dxs
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Postby Dxs » Thu Jan 22, 2009 12:45 pm

also side note that is not important at the moment:
still need to work out a way to fix the rear water pipe.
and front pass side steering boot is dead.

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Dxs
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Postby Dxs » Thu Jan 22, 2009 7:30 pm

anyone have options of how the cylinder walls look?

in relation to theres?

i would really wanna get away without touching the internals

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Postby QikLude » Thu Jan 22, 2009 7:46 pm

no 1 looks like its a bit golden in color?
Is it very smooth?

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Dxs
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Postby Dxs » Thu Jan 22, 2009 7:47 pm

they do feel smooth

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Postby madmini » Fri Jan 23, 2009 5:28 am

hi,as i have just gone down this road not long ago,and very painfuly i might add heres my 2c worth,my car did same thing head gastket blw so i replaced it got 400km out of it then went again,so had head surfaced,that worked but was slightly warped,with that said was within tolrance,worked well for a while then the bottom end let loose blew the piston rings,so had whole engine recond at cost of $1600,was honed out acid diped to remove any crap in it ect head was strightend and reskimed and the block needed skiming too but only ever so slightly,so i get it back in the car run it for 600kms then bang another piston lets loose (going on loss of power and compression check) so striped down the offending pistonmy self,got a replacement piston and had new rings off the damaged one that were ok back on to new piston put together and so far coverd 1200kms with no problems,oh and needed a new cam too.

in your case what id do is the following:

if you are able to get a headgasket only (avil online for about $35) throw that on and bolt your head on throw ya cam ect in and do a compression test,this will tell you if your rings/bottom end condition is in,all should read in the 130-140psi from memory depending on if any work been done before(ie skimming head rasieing comp).

then from there you can make the call but id proberly guess going by my experance and posts on here that most cars that havent had any work done are getting tired now and could do with some new bits,other thing you should check is your cam the number 4 lobe wears down in these mine looked quite flat on the lobe,but all said and done these engine go nuts when rebuild and in my mind worth it for the fun factor,if you can get a engine shop to hone/do all the machine work and you are able to assemble it your self can save you coin at the same time .

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Postby QikLude » Fri Jan 23, 2009 9:31 am

I agree with the above, compression test should be a good indicator, the cam issue is common.

I have also found several blocks that the bores have been out of round, since the previous owners ignored the motor and just kept trashing it the piston starts to slap around a lot, and can explain problems like broken rings etc in motors that should be ok.
only real way to check is when block is out getting a check before a hone...

Cheers

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Dxs
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Postby Dxs » Fri Jan 23, 2009 12:18 pm

thanks for the suggestions guys..


I am more now leaning to removing the block and taking both the block and head to an engine builders to check out surfaces, bores, bearings etc.

I might go chat to them in a week or so.


Also supposedly Brendan the previous owner had the head rebuilt a few years ago.. so it may still be ok.

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Dxs
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Postby Dxs » Thu Feb 05, 2009 8:43 pm

i have been away for a week..
but thanks to mike got some stock parts.. just intake and ic (some of the hoses are busted etc though.. but good to have the IC etc):
Image


also my brand new from factory t2 came:








Image
besides that.. havent even looked at the car for a wekk


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