Dxs's 'getting his t2 on the road' log

[Dxs]

another nice reference thread:
viewtopic.php?p=5383

[Dxs]

boring update..

just pulled the manifolds off the head..
( viewtopic.php?t=3361 )



most nuts and bolts seemed way under torqued. Will have to rememeber to replace the vacuum lines and get some new washers for the fuel lines etc. Might goto a wrecker and see if i can get an ED fuel filter bracket.. might be an easier replacement for future fuel filters.


hopefully tomoz will start pulling out some stuff in anticipation for the block removal.. [/url]

[Dxs]

just got the gasket kits in the mail today..
the gasket quality doesn't look all that brillant.. but i am used to honda OEM parts.

29/11/07 is the date on the head gaskets

14/12/06 is the date on the bottom gaskets

[Dxs]

finally received my order of ARP parts.. but the place i ordered them through forgot to send me the rod bolts too.. which is probably the most important part i need to get the ball rolling.

But anyway, here is a pic of them with the stock items as well..



still waiting on a bunch of parts from 3gcvc as well :/



all annoying/frustrating.

[Dxs]

did a bit of removal/inspection today of the damaged corner..
pulled the front bar and pass side 1/4.. 1/4 was welded onto the body in a few places! Very half arse repair that for sure


Seems to be a bit of rust near the sprayer tanks.. nothing super concerning.. a bit of removal of rust and welding of a new metal plate should fix it up.






this is what the front end looks like.. seems the panels were pulled apart to get an OK geometry again.. still warped farked though..







plan to buy a stud welder (if i can find one cheap enough in AU). So i can pull it out a bit.. then maybe welder some plates for reinforcement.. maybe even see if i can some straight areas of the front left corner off a wreck (but probably unlikely)..


need a new guard etc too..

[Dxs]

Just a little parts update..

finally recieved my ARP rod bolts from NZ.. and a box of various stock t2 items from 3gcvc.




Also was up in sydney for a good few days, so paid turbocab a visit to pick up a piece that will come in quite handy.. pass side 1/4 cut, as well as some other little things.




So yeah, i guess now i will contact an engine reconditioner:
Looking at getting head and block resurfaced, rehone, mods to pistons to use f10a suzuki 60mm rings, use new ACL bearings and maybe even a bit of a balance.


Also still need to get a heap of various parts.. and get myself/learn to use a MIG

[Dxs]

Had my last exam a couple of days back, so getting stuck into the city during my break.

Bought a MIG so i am quite poor.. as well as a bunch of heaps of things like cheap air tools, masks etc.

Rigged up a little chain hoist setup


Disconnected a lot of things and hoisted the block and box out of there.


Also removed the driver side front 1/4.. there is a little rust, but nothing super super scary.. passenger side is worse.


So now gotta strip the block and work out all the specs for the machine shop. Learn to mig :p and fix up the rust and maybe a bit of seam welding.. Also look into things like mount inserts etc. and goto honda and see if i can get crank seals, timing belt, and thermostat.




Now i am just wondering on some things about stripping the block:
*Anyone have a good method/trick to remove the crank pulley bolt?
*Do i have to remove the starter to remove the box? the box is basically undoing all the big bolts.. any special sequence?
*Water pump, does undoing the pulley then the pump require any sequence to avoid warpage?
*The rubber in the mounts seem to not fill the mounts that much, a lot of play and gaps.. is this normal? There is no real cracking in the rubber.

[Dxs]

minor update..

just stripped down the block today with just the bare internals left in there. Ready to goto a machine shop one i have finalised a few details.


Still need to pull the cam from the head.. and also pull the rear heater pipe off the block.. anyone know what the method is? Simply pull it out? (havent had success)

[James]

Yeah just pull it out, as long as you have undone the 10mm bolt that holes it to the block along the back somewhere. Its got an Oring on the end that will probably be very old and glued into the back of the water pump.

[Colby]

just got the gasket kits in the mail today..
the gasket quality doesn't look all that brillant.. but i am used to honda OEM parts.

29/11/07 is the date on the head gaskets

14/12/06 is the date on the bottom gaskets

Where did you get the gasket set from?

I'm in the states and need them.

Thanks,
Colby

[Dxs]

hi colby
this thread has more info:
http://cityturbo.com/forums/viewtopic.p ... 3&start=75

Basically the gaskets are made by an aussie company AA Gaskets
http://www.aagaskets.com.au/

And you can order the gasket kits from typical auto stores here in Australia and in NZ. But it seems supply is running low, and the quality isnt as good as OEM.


You might be able to still get some seals at Honda too.

[Dxs]

pulled the cam today, so the head and the block are ready for machining. Here is my work area:


annoyingly, the machinist i have been in contact with said it wont be able to be done for around 5 weeks. So dont know what direction to go with that.


Had a better inspection of the rust on the passenger side. Might have to do as bigelboe suggested and cut from the outside to weld in a new piece of metal. Gonna go a thicker gauge.. gonna try to do it with the windscreen left in too. (am i crazy??)



Have various parts laying around too, might chuck up a pic tomorrow, just for the hell of it.


edit: and here is a pic of where i am getting my metal from :p

[Dxs]

just a pic of some of the parts:


ACL F10A +.5mm rings
ACL thrustbearings :/
Couple of magnetic drain plugs for the box and sump
nice GMB japanese made waterpump
Honda crank seals and 88c thermostat with gasket
Last timing belt in the country too (old school honda parts sticker)


Also decided to rip some stuff out in preparation for the rust repair..



Unfortunately the steeringwheel had to be sacrificed.. never had a problem removing one before.. yanking it, even smashing with a hammer did no good. Hooked up a puller to the outer metal, and the metal just bent instead.. finally dilled some holes in it, and used the puller successfully. Dash was a bitch too, clap clap to the retard who decided to use screw brackets to hold the loom to the back of the dash.

[James]

According to col steering wheels get jammed on after people mash the splines, by steering with vice grips or similar, then ram the wheel back on.

[Dxs]

there was like .5-1mm of play though.. thats the weird thing, wasnt just jammed on solid.

guess i need another wheel now anyway :p