CityTurbo.com

I can get them over here if necessary.

anyway,
just minor update for those who like basic pics.
The windscreen, sunroof and corner rust has been cut out and welded up (although a bit ghetto). Put some por15 down, which seemed to stick alright.. Then some tie coat on top, which hasnt fully cured yet, but i am a bit concerned with the conhesion with the por15.. time will tell i guess.

have also cut out the front pass side 1/4 area (which was farked), and stripped down my new 1/4 piece. Took a while, it is ready for a final cut and weld some day soon now.

cool good to see that a bit of that front cut that i took from citycabrolet's car is going to good use!
and good to see that you are getting stuck into the t2 rebuild good on ya!

I'm glad someone has benefit from my loss

Man if i had the money i do now back then... i'd have kept her.

yeah cheers, the 1/4 has worked out quite well i think





all welded up now. Not 100% but quite close enough seeming as though there would have been minor distortion in the rest of the engine bay etc. <1mm within spec in relation to the rad support brace and the distance between the holes for the 1/4 panel.

Will grind a bit and the por15 the seams tomoz hopefully.

Thats looking well sweet bro

Very nicely done mate

the forum has been dead the last few days, so here is my contribution.


havent done all that much, all the welding is done, and the bog is done.. just gotta get some primer happening.. just using 1k so shall need a while to cure before i put down the ISF 2k colour. Not too anal about having it perfect looking at all, just want a solid rust free car atm.


My mounts were a bit shagged, so wanted to fix them. A friend came over with his mounts (b16a/18c) and some polyurethane. Went for 55a shore rating (had used around a 70+ before), just drilled some holes in the rubber and cleaned them up, tape them with some quality tape and filled them all up. It shall result in quite a stiff mount with hopefully not major dramas.




was also looking at plumb backs, found a cheap GFB stealth for sale so snapped that up. It is an adjustable that can run atmosphere or plumbback or a bit of both. If i ever get the car on the road i will whack it in.

Dxs wrote:

Nice work. My car has accident damage on the otherside similar to this, I was going to just straighten it, but now I know better

Just wondering, Why cut the panel rather than going back a bit further and unpick the factory welds, then replace the whole panel?

basically because what i welded in is all i had.. i only cut 20mm off the new piece to make a nice join and remove some rust that was on that end.

ideally it would be better to get a full piece, but i didnt have that option.

The welds have been ground down a bit anyway, will put some seam sealer over the top too.

seeming as though my car is stripped out, and there is minor rust here and there under the carpet. I thought might as well remove the deadener while i am at it.


Went and bought some dry ice, which is a well known method for deadener removal. Basically the deadener just contracts due to the cold and separates from the body. Just leave it on for a couple of minutes, move the ice away and then just pry it up. Was quite easy on the city, except for under the dash/firewall.. Last car i did this to was a bit harder, i presume the age of the car helped.



weighed in at around 3.5kg all up

looking good mate
ive just finished doing this the hard way using a small scraper as a chisel whacked with a hammer.

That is a nice trick with the ice
Will have to remember that one.

Cheers

turbocab wrote:looking good mate
ive just finished doing this the hard way using a small scraper as a chisel whacked with a hammer.

Gutted Heat gun works pretty well too. I left my car in the sun for a couple of hours and lifted off huge sheets as well.

Nice work DXS.

The dry ice is better imo i have tried using a heatgun it got messy quickly lol.

Dry ice makes loud booms in plastic beverage bottles as well just be damn careful.