Help Needed-Dropping a T1 engine in a Cab

[Caleb]

Hi Guy's I'll be using this topic a lot in the next few weeks for questions about dropping a T1 engine in a Cab.
So heres my first question -I'm trying to take out the (cab) air compressor without letting the refrigerant gas out, & i was wondering if i can remove the 2 pipes that go into the firewall (without letting any gas out). Or if not how do i let the gas out safely .
Thanx for any replys
CJ

[city_cabriolet]

Your kidding right? Remove the a/c pipes without gas escaping? Those pipes are apart of the gas system...

Your supposed to take it to an a/c place where they catch the gas. If you crack the nut on any of that piping, it'll start escaping.

[turbocab]

just let it out,what has mother nature done for you lately enyway
otherwise (if you give a f#@k)take it to an auto aircon place and get them to remove it.
but there is no way to take it all apart yourself without loosing the gas

[James]

There are little bleed valves on the AC system that look liek the valves on your tires, just poke the bit in the middle down with a screw driver to let the gas out.

[falco]

Whenever I do this, I remove the compressor from the engine and place it out of harm's way, while leaving all hoses connected. Then, when the new engine goes in, I bolt the compressor back on. That way, the A/C system is left completely undisturbed, it doesn't need to be degassed/regassed. Admittedly I've never tried that on a City, but it works on everything else I've ever worked on, as far as I can recall. Worth investigation anyway, given the costs involved with regassing.

f.

[AnimaLector]

hmm here's an idea, as you're undoing the connector for the air con hose, try holding a running vacuum cleaner close, that'll suck the gas into the bag, done.

P.S in reality I wouldn't mind too much about the gas, many many many cars have gas leaks, it was a rule created so not every air con shop would go about releasing the gas into atmosphere.

Take some pics as you go and perhaps we can do a writeup of the conversion

Later
Andy

[James]

hmm here's an idea, as you're undoing the connector for the air con hose, try holding a running vacuum cleaner close, that'll suck the gas into the bag, done.

I sincerely hope you aren't serious Andy...

[Caleb]

Hi Guy's, I've fixed that now . I just pushed one of the bleed valves it went phhiittttttt for a second and then nothing so it must have been out of gas, I've never used before so I wont be putting it back in with the turbo save space for a pod filter

thanx
CJ.

[AnimaLector]

I sincerely hope you aren't serious Andy...

what??

I just pushed one of the bleed valves it went phhiittttttt for a second and then nothing

That reminds me of a funny story. I got a mountain bike with air sprung front forks, anyways they were running a bit stiff and my mate said " just bleed a bit of air out of em" these things run about 130psi, so ok I thought fair enough, pressed it for a FRACTION of a second and then the bike was low rider style, complete lack of fork action for the remainder of the ride.
Anyways back on topic.. sorry

Depending on where you live I would recommend you stick with the air con. My first City turbo had pod filter AND air con, with a relocated battery. I majorly regret not getting a car with air con again...

ANdy

[Caleb]

Progress report: The 2 engines are out but before I put the turbo engine in the cab I need 2 install the T1 fuel lines, tank & pump & connect the T1 heater box.
Also I was wondering where 2 pipes would go 2 from the turbo as I want 2 install a boost controller & (or) a BOV, & would be ezy 2 do it before i put the engine in.
http://cityturbo.com/forums/garage.php? ... age_id=122

thanx heaps
CJ

[Caleb]

Hi guys things are all going quite well with the conversion so far , The heater box is in and so are the fuel lines and engine , Something that I've never had any experience in so far is splicing the wiring looms behind the drivers door i.e.

3. The wiring loom from the T1 will have to be fitted to allow for the computer and injection but spliced into the original toward the rear of the doors because the back end wiring is different. (from Tony in the infobase)

If someone could tell me what wires get soldered what that would be very appreciated

thanx
CJ

[Caleb]

I'm looking for anyone who has done the conversion from cab to turbocab, I need to know witch wires to connect at the back of the drivers door
please reply

thanx CJ

[falco]

I haven't done it, but I know the vague layout; the main difference will be the fuel pump feed. Take a look at the wiring colours, do most of them match, but there's one or two left over coming from the front with no matching wires in the rear loom? Those wires (I think there are two, earth and +12) are the pump supply, and I guess you've already dealt with the pump and its supply separately.

Maybe that helps, but probably not...

f.

[Caleb]

I am not having a good day I've spent the last 3 days trying to start my turbocab I've sorted out most of the wiring so that the fuel pump works. After turning the key I can hear 2 things, 1 the fuel pump, 2 the starter Motor. Now the problem I thought I had was the starter motors solenoid not clicking in because it was just spinning around inside. But the real problem is the cabs flywheel must be bigger then the turbos. Because the starter motor hole is in a different position with the 2 G/boxes now I'm tearing my hair out as I realize I have to take it all apart Again 2 swap the G/BOX having a VERY bad day

CJ

[mangusta]

Buck up CJ, at least you'll never do it again....

Paul