Re: turbocab's T2R replica build

Post whatever you like in here but try to keep it Honda City related!
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3GCVC
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Postby 3GCVC » Mon Nov 03, 2008 8:51 am

i have a spot welder for the door openings, side windows, windscreen and boot if you want to borrow it you would just have to pickup and drop off its bloody heavy, build some good upper body strength if you had to spot weld with it all the time.

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James
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Postby James » Mon Nov 03, 2008 9:37 am

Mnn that could be handy, Im guessing your talking to me not matt :P Will see if I can sort something out, the NZHondas courier service could probably get it over here.

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Postby turbocab » Mon Nov 03, 2008 3:18 pm

bigelboe wrote: Im guessing your talking to me not matt :P .

ile fire up the boat and pick it up in a couple of days :wink:
i did my door seams by drilling through the first layer of steel with a 4mm drillbit then welding up the hole joining the two together,very time consuming.
ive seen race cars done with pop rivets at 50mm centers.

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Postby James » Mon Nov 03, 2008 5:08 pm

Yeah thats called plug welding if you didn't already know.

I found out the reason most people don't fully weld their panel seams, its because it can cause distortion as the steel heats up as your welding it, and flexes out, then your weld fuses and holds it in the flexed position, possibly putting load in the structure.

I was wondering what it looked like inside that suspension arm, exactly the same as my car around there. Im guessing your city could do with some serious bracing around there like mine. Im currently trying to think of all the different stiffening things I can do while I have it in bare metal, I recon I could almost build a roll cage inside my roof channel and A and C pillars :P

About the suspension points tho, every car has different weaknesses and its not straightforward to tell from looking at it which directions are going to be weak, or even what forces are being transmitted so it will be a bit of trial and error for me in working out which things matter the most.

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Postby ProT » Mon Nov 03, 2008 9:26 pm

I was not going to bother, but now you two (turbocab & bigelbow) have made me paranoid... so turbocab when are you and your MIG welder coming over to spot weld my engine bay, front towers, door frames, windows and boot opening ? :)

All I have is an arc welder and even with 1.6mm rods and low amps I can just see me making lots of holes.

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Postby Mike_NZ » Tue Nov 04, 2008 5:31 am

Im currently trying to think of all the different stiffening things I can do while I have it in bare metal, I recon I could almost build a roll cage inside my roof channel and A and C pillars


I had thought of doing something along these lines, there's quite a lot of space and I reckon you could stealth it pretty nicely.

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James
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Postby James » Tue Nov 04, 2008 8:04 am

ProT wrote:I was not going to bother, but now you two (turbocab & bigelbow) have made me paranoid... so turbocab when are you and your MIG welder coming over to spot weld my engine bay, front towers, door frames, windows and boot opening ? :)

All I have is an arc welder and even with 1.6mm rods and low amps I can just see me making lots of holes.


Hehe maybe you should wait and see if it is of any benefit first. Although I have to try and remember what my car was like to drive last November if I am to tell any differences!

Mike_NZ wrote:Quote:
Im currently trying to think of all the different stiffening things I can do while I have it in bare metal, I recon I could almost build a roll cage inside my roof channel and A and C pillars

I had thought of doing something along these lines, there's quite a lot of space and I reckon you could stealth it pretty nicely.


Funnily enough I was reading all the regulations on roll cages and stuff the other day and if you could get it inside the roof bit and the pillars then its actually completely legal, all you would need is cert. Technically you just have to keep any bars out of the 'A' interior zone, which is an 800mm radius from the average hip point when you are seated in the seat in the middle of its adjustment, 340mm wide. You can also have side instrusion bars down the side from a half cage as long as they stay out of this area, so below hip height.

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Postby turbocab » Sun Nov 09, 2008 7:48 am

spent all day yesterday on the sandblaster wire brush wheel and welder,it was not a nice experience but its done now.
so today ime looking at welding a few patches where ive found rust going right thru,then ime spraying two coats of por15 4hours apart over the lot.
matt

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Postby James » Sun Nov 09, 2008 3:11 pm

Good shit man :mrgreen:

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Postby turbocab » Sun Nov 09, 2008 6:33 pm

all done...thank [email protected]#k
all went well with the painting and my front end is now a nice shiny black,ime tempted to leave it black it looks kinda cool.
i did have a bit of a hickup while applying the first coat i had a bunch of sand come raining down from the bag that i have the front wiring loom tied up in landing on fresh paint but after the second coat it dosent look so bad.
matt

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Postby James » Sun Nov 09, 2008 7:11 pm

Hehe sweet. I am going to get some POR15 myself, it sounds like good shit, just for the bits under the wipers I cant get to. I always love how nice a car looks in primer.

Gutted about the sand, so did you just leave it on there?? Where did it land?

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Postby turbocab » Sun Nov 09, 2008 8:40 pm

bigelboe wrote:Hehe sweet. I am going to get some POR15 myself, it sounds like good shit, just for the bits under the wipers I cant get to. I always love how nice a car looks in primer.

Gutted about the sand, so did you just leave it on there?? Where did it land?

the por 15 has a very glossy finish so not really like primer and as long as its not exposed to the sun it should stay looking as it does now.
left the sand there,its on the drivers side strut tower i really dont care tho its only an engine bay.
matt

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Postby turbocab » Sun Nov 09, 2008 8:51 pm

before
Image
after
Image
etc
Image
the flash has made some of it look grey.
the sand came out from the grey tape around the loom above the strut tower,pretty sure everyone in the neighbourhood heard me scream the f word when it happend.
now i can get back onto the bog work on the doors.
matt

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Postby James » Sun Nov 09, 2008 9:41 pm

Hey man, how much paint did you use to do all of that? Did you thin it at all?

Looking good too btw. Looking forward to sanding? :P madmini gave me the advice to go for 300-400 grit hand sanding in the engine bay to diminish your chances of going through on an edge and having to touch up, and you cant really use a block or a board anywhere in there.

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Postby turbocab » Mon Nov 10, 2008 5:54 am

that was just over half a litre for 2 coats,i thinned it 5% its already pretty runny to start with.
i think it cost $96 perL
so ive got plenty left to repaint all the suspension arms etc.
i might leave the engine bay black i think it looks pretty cool.
matt


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