Re: turbocab's T2R replica build
bigelboe wrote: Im guessing your talking to me not matt .
ile fire up the boat and pick it up in a couple of days
i did my door seams by drilling through the first layer of steel with a 4mm drillbit then welding up the hole joining the two together,very time consuming.
ive seen race cars done with pop rivets at 50mm centers.
- James
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Yeah thats called plug welding if you didn't already know.
I found out the reason most people don't fully weld their panel seams, its because it can cause distortion as the steel heats up as your welding it, and flexes out, then your weld fuses and holds it in the flexed position, possibly putting load in the structure.
I was wondering what it looked like inside that suspension arm, exactly the same as my car around there. Im guessing your city could do with some serious bracing around there like mine. Im currently trying to think of all the different stiffening things I can do while I have it in bare metal, I recon I could almost build a roll cage inside my roof channel and A and C pillars
About the suspension points tho, every car has different weaknesses and its not straightforward to tell from looking at it which directions are going to be weak, or even what forces are being transmitted so it will be a bit of trial and error for me in working out which things matter the most.
I found out the reason most people don't fully weld their panel seams, its because it can cause distortion as the steel heats up as your welding it, and flexes out, then your weld fuses and holds it in the flexed position, possibly putting load in the structure.
I was wondering what it looked like inside that suspension arm, exactly the same as my car around there. Im guessing your city could do with some serious bracing around there like mine. Im currently trying to think of all the different stiffening things I can do while I have it in bare metal, I recon I could almost build a roll cage inside my roof channel and A and C pillars
About the suspension points tho, every car has different weaknesses and its not straightforward to tell from looking at it which directions are going to be weak, or even what forces are being transmitted so it will be a bit of trial and error for me in working out which things matter the most.
I was not going to bother, but now you two (turbocab & bigelbow) have made me paranoid... so turbocab when are you and your MIG welder coming over to spot weld my engine bay, front towers, door frames, windows and boot opening ?
All I have is an arc welder and even with 1.6mm rods and low amps I can just see me making lots of holes.
All I have is an arc welder and even with 1.6mm rods and low amps I can just see me making lots of holes.
Im currently trying to think of all the different stiffening things I can do while I have it in bare metal, I recon I could almost build a roll cage inside my roof channel and A and C pillars
I had thought of doing something along these lines, there's quite a lot of space and I reckon you could stealth it pretty nicely.
- James
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ProT wrote:I was not going to bother, but now you two (turbocab & bigelbow) have made me paranoid... so turbocab when are you and your MIG welder coming over to spot weld my engine bay, front towers, door frames, windows and boot opening ?
All I have is an arc welder and even with 1.6mm rods and low amps I can just see me making lots of holes.
Hehe maybe you should wait and see if it is of any benefit first. Although I have to try and remember what my car was like to drive last November if I am to tell any differences!
Mike_NZ wrote:Quote:
Im currently trying to think of all the different stiffening things I can do while I have it in bare metal, I recon I could almost build a roll cage inside my roof channel and A and C pillars
I had thought of doing something along these lines, there's quite a lot of space and I reckon you could stealth it pretty nicely.
Funnily enough I was reading all the regulations on roll cages and stuff the other day and if you could get it inside the roof bit and the pillars then its actually completely legal, all you would need is cert. Technically you just have to keep any bars out of the 'A' interior zone, which is an 800mm radius from the average hip point when you are seated in the seat in the middle of its adjustment, 340mm wide. You can also have side instrusion bars down the side from a half cage as long as they stay out of this area, so below hip height.
all done...thank f@#k
all went well with the painting and my front end is now a nice shiny black,ime tempted to leave it black it looks kinda cool.
i did have a bit of a hickup while applying the first coat i had a bunch of sand come raining down from the bag that i have the front wiring loom tied up in landing on fresh paint but after the second coat it dosent look so bad.
matt
all went well with the painting and my front end is now a nice shiny black,ime tempted to leave it black it looks kinda cool.
i did have a bit of a hickup while applying the first coat i had a bunch of sand come raining down from the bag that i have the front wiring loom tied up in landing on fresh paint but after the second coat it dosent look so bad.
matt
bigelboe wrote:Hehe sweet. I am going to get some POR15 myself, it sounds like good shit, just for the bits under the wipers I cant get to. I always love how nice a car looks in primer.
Gutted about the sand, so did you just leave it on there?? Where did it land?
the por 15 has a very glossy finish so not really like primer and as long as its not exposed to the sun it should stay looking as it does now.
left the sand there,its on the drivers side strut tower i really dont care tho its only an engine bay.
matt
- James
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Hey man, how much paint did you use to do all of that? Did you thin it at all?
Looking good too btw. Looking forward to sanding? madmini gave me the advice to go for 300-400 grit hand sanding in the engine bay to diminish your chances of going through on an edge and having to touch up, and you cant really use a block or a board anywhere in there.
Looking good too btw. Looking forward to sanding? madmini gave me the advice to go for 300-400 grit hand sanding in the engine bay to diminish your chances of going through on an edge and having to touch up, and you cant really use a block or a board anywhere in there.
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