Re: turbocab's T2R replica build

Post whatever you like in here but try to keep it Honda City related!
Hyperblade
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Postby Hyperblade » Sun Jan 11, 2009 2:23 pm

Thanks for the progress updates, always interesting to see a build thread, and watch a car go though its stages.

What do you have planned for the motor? Are you going to keep it stock, match the mugen specs, or go all out?

Regards
Ben

turbocab
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Postby turbocab » Sun Jan 11, 2009 7:12 pm

i am going to put a stock engine back in for now,itching to go for a drive asap then look at building my spare engine up.
i am interested to see how bigelboe goes with the twincharger setup,when he gets it all running smoothly see if i can build the same setup myself.
matt

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James
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Postby James » Sun Jan 11, 2009 8:45 pm

I am interested to see how it goes too :D Good progress mate, Im not looking forward to gapping panels.

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Postby turbocab » Wed Feb 11, 2009 9:07 pm

six and a half f*#*ing months after placing the order i have my rims.
ooooooooooh they are sexy ime considering having one in my bed tonight :wink:
pics tomorow or friday when i have the tyres fitted,looks like they should fit without cutting up the bumper.
matt

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Postby city_cabriolet » Thu Feb 12, 2009 2:48 am

oooh, can't wait for the porn ;)

turbocab
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Postby turbocab » Fri Feb 13, 2009 4:02 pm

right rear viewImage
right front side view
Image
left front
Image
right frontImage
dont they look sexy!
have a look at the bumper clearance on the fronts :(
what i might try tomorrow is building a little timber frame in the engine bay so i can sit a large garbo bin in there and load it up with water to simulate approximate engine weight and then a little more for the planned drop in ride height and see if i can clear the bumper,
if not ime going to have to just slice a little off the leading edge.

what is the weight of the engine and gearbox?

bigelboe.. the custom suspension you make for me is going to have to have very limited travel and be hard as farked especially for the rear end the rears will never actually go up inside the guards because i went a bit overboard with the offset
,unless i can have 10mm or so machined off the rear hubs or shorten the control arms? to bring the wheels inside slightly.
another possible solution to the problem could be to get some 185 or 195 tyres on the back so the sidewall stretch will keep the tyre away from the guard allowing more travel and getting the car to sit lower.
comments and suggestions please.
matt
now ime going back down to the garage to stare at them again :shock:

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Postby city_cabriolet » Fri Feb 13, 2009 9:52 pm

hmmm, be careful with smaller back tires, i've had my city do a 180 (the back came out!)

THOSE ARE SEXY SEXY RIMS!!!

great porn :)

edit: The integra type r (limited edition, 2000 model) suspention has about 1 to 2cm travel, thats it! And rock solid. You want something like that.

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Mike_NZ
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Postby Mike_NZ » Sat Feb 14, 2009 8:11 am

Those look sweet! I can't wait to see this car finished. Good luck getting them to fit.

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Postby madmini » Sat Feb 14, 2009 9:15 am

hi there,re your problem with the front bumper,one is it sitting int the right place? why i ask is one side loks like i covers the wheel more than the other,also the car looks like its sitting to high at the front too,what id do from here is one make shure 100%that bumper is in correct place,then from that mesure ride heightfrom the floor to a point under the car,say where bottom arms connect to main body if its the same both sides then more than likely the kit is off (quite common with fibreglass kits).
now as i said looks to be sitting to high and going by the pics i think if you lowered it this will alter the way/gap between the fron wheels and the kit,i take out the front springs then put wheels on and drop it on the ground and get it sitting to a nioce height where it looks nice between wheel and guard and then see what your clearance is like with regard to your bumper,i had the exact problem with my mini and was a combo of ride height,and where the bumper had to be,its still not 100% to me but the avg person wouldnt know.

let us know how you get on.

cheers pete.

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Postby turbocab » Sat Feb 14, 2009 2:39 pm

yes you are right madmini the passenger side is touching a little more than the drivers side,it was a lot worse when i first put them on because the wheel alignment was wayyy out after i took the steering rack out but i think ive got the alignment as good as i can by eye,but theres still like 8 or 10mm difference ime going to try spacing the bumper supports out a little which should fix the problem a little then ile empty out the garbage bin of water and take the springs out like i should have done in the first place,to check it at a closer to normal rideheight.
the problem with one side being slightly different to the other could also be due to a small crash the car sustained a while ago,or when i welded up the bit of chassis where the lower control arm bolts into.....hope not!

madmini
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Postby madmini » Sat Feb 14, 2009 3:01 pm

re your bottom arm,mesure from the center of the rear wheel to the center of the front wheel,this will tell you whats going on with the wheel base,im shure some one on here will read this and might mesuere theres to see what it should be,on my mini im useing a ae92 toyota coroola steering rack end,this is for a number of things one was clearance of the honda gearbox,second was wearing out tie rod rubbers/bushes,,and finaly to get adjustment of the wheel i can now put it where i want it not to shure if a city could have a adjustble setup (been a while since i seen one)

but in short id go mesure the wheel base and make shure its correct,if not it will allways give you problems,handeling,steering,wearing out tyres ect,
if it did need pulling like on a chassie rig it would only take an hr or so to sort it provideing its just a few mm out ive done it quite a few times now.

as for the weight of the engine ect i found this so think would be close enough give or take

88-91 CRX/Civic engine weights:

CRX HF D15B6 - 195lbs (dry)
CRX/Civic DX D15B2 - 208lbs (dry)
CRX/Civic Si D16A6 - 219lbs (dry)

JDM DOHC ZC - 232lbs (dry)

JDM B16A - 309lbs (wet)

88-91 CRX/Civic L3 D-series transmission - 63lbs.

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James
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Postby James » Sun Feb 15, 2009 12:16 pm

He man wheels look all good. Ill read all the posts and offer my opinion in a bit.

Engine weight for a T1 is 96kg. Gearbox I dunno, probably about 30kg.

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Mike_NZ
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Postby Mike_NZ » Sun Feb 15, 2009 1:12 pm

Gearbox might even be less than that, I can pick mine up pretty easily with one hand.

turbocab
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Postby turbocab » Sun Feb 15, 2009 6:19 pm

alright this is where ime at after a bit of f#@king about with the car today.
ive taken the springs out of the front end and checked a couple of different ride heights
i first went wayy low so the bumper was sitting 130 mm off the ground looks awesome but i think that there will not be enough suspension travel and secondly i think that the lowest point of the car,the lower crossmember thing will be well below 100mm off the road.

so next i tried the bumper 200mm off the ground..too high but plenty of suspension travel 70mm of movement to where the tyre would smash into the front guard.

so i figure that a good compromise is 165mm off the ground this gives 45 to 50 mm of suspension movement although ime thinking that 35mm will be a safe maximum travel to ensure that the tyre never smashes into the guard.

now as expected the front bar will need to be cut back to allow turning at full lock no big drama and i always expected this.
now for the metalwork that will need doing :cry: and also another indication of a bent chassis
on full lock left the tyre comes firmly into contact with the little lip of sheet where the inner guard meets the body(as illustrated in the following pic) i estimate that the left hand side will need to have the lip cut off entirely to just clear but the right hand side is already clearing by 3 or 4mm
to me this shows that the left hand side of the car is squashed in a bit like 10mm or so.
unless this could all be caused by poor wheel alignment?
should i have that checked before i take it to someone to have it stretched on a rack.
i know that i can fix this by cutting a bit out of the offending area and welding a plate back over it and the wheel should clear,i will also continue this cut away section to eliminate the hump behind the door hinge so it wont hit there when the wheel travels upward over a bump.
Image
madmini how mutch were you charged to have cars straightened?
matt

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Postby madmini » Sun Feb 15, 2009 6:41 pm

ok turbocab i can see what the problem is now and yes your bottom arm is bent,qustion,affter the accident did you replace it? you may even find that it could be a combo of bent shock and bottom arm,im a panelbeater here in nz so a bit far away to come help ya out,but id recomend now is if possible change the bottom arm it may look ok but they do bend,and also shock if possible,then like i said before mesure the center of each wheel at the right ride hight,weight ect and go from there,if its say still 10 mm out then its in the body where it mounts to,now if you live near somewhere wheres theres a friendly post in the ground id do this,assumeing you want to fix yourself (or try to)
tie the car down at the rear say thrw the hook on the boot floor,or double loop it thrw the rear arms close to the body mounts,now with the wheel on and car on flat ground put a chain,or very strong rope around the offending bottom arm (if your old one is damaged you may want to use this),now tie it to either a car towbar/or if you have a old fashioned block and tackel go around a post or something solid (4wds with winches work really well!)
now pull it now say from wheel to wheel is ment to be 450mm and your short at 440mm pull the whle lot to 460mm,as when you do this it will spring back when you release it we normaly work on 5-10mm incrments depinding on car/steel ect but citys are soft as butter,but dont fear if you over do it as a wack with a big hammer and block of wood will send it back a few mm,but this is if you want to do it yourself otherwise geting a shop to do it may cost around $150-300,like i said try bottom arm 1st as you may get a few mm back buy changeing that insted of 10mm is could be 6mm or so.

worth a shot.

cheers pete.


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